Welcome to the AMACO/Brent Artist Exchange

Question Posted By: Toni Thursday, March 13 2008 15:33:54 Suggest Answer

I sculpted some pieces out of Amoco air drying molding clay and
would like to apply polymer clay over the dried pieces. Would
this work? I may just test it but before I do I wondered if anyone
else had tried this. I am basically using the molding clay as an
armature so I won't have to use so much polymer and yet I won't
have to glaze and fire.

Question Posted By: Dixy-ua Tuesday, March 11 2008 20:29:31 Suggest Answer

pontiac grand prix performance parts kari campbell and dallas and contact chuiwwa death rate in patients with mechanical ventilation the britian empire electric scooter for children be
iece mountain puppies rinconpaisa goddess hera in greek iron oxides

Question Posted By: Lu Ann Prill Sunday, June 3 2007 18:47:04 Suggest Answer

I have been ask to help select a kiln for a new cultural arts center in my town. I only know about the kiln in my own art room. How do I know what kiln to recommend? They hope to have classes for all age groups and may have as many as 50-60 students enrolled in ceramics classes each term. They were hoping to start out with one kiln because of costs. I want them to have a dependable kiln that will be able to accomodate their needs (and those needs are not known yet since they are not yet open). Any suggestions????

  +  Reply Posted By: (AMACO Staff) Lori Jenkins Wednesday, June 6 2007 08:40:16

Hi. We have several materials available at no cost that will help you to determine what kiln would best meet the center's needs. Please send me you complete mailing address and I'll be glad to send this information to you. Also check our web site and you can pick uo some valuble information there as well.


Lori Jenkins
ljenkins@amaco.com

Question Posted By: Holly Sunday, May 20 2007 18:19:32 Suggest Answer

Is Marblex softer than amaco modeling clay? I am using the amaco modeling clay on a wheel. (when I ordered it, the site said that it could be thrown on a wheel) The modeling clay is really hard to work with, I am hoping the the Marblex will be softer like "real" clay.

  +  Reply Posted By: (AMACO Staff) Lori Jenkins Monday, June 4 2007 08:35:59

Good mo
ing. If your working with either our moist pottery clay (X-11, X-12 or X-15) or our air dry clays they are all natural clay bodies and should work well on the wheel. Just make sure you add a little water while working on the wheel. Our Marblex product is not any softer then these other clay bodies.

Lori

Question Posted By: D Smith Wednesday, May 16 2007 11:07:15 Suggest Answer

Although Craft Porcelain Clay is described as having the look of Porcelain, I need to know: Does it have the feel of porcelain?

  +  Reply Posted By: (AMACO Staff) Lori Jenkins Monday, June 4 2007 08:38:06

The clay is man made and therefore does not have the feel of actual porcelain clay but does have the appearance of porcelain when dried.

Lori

Question Posted By: chris coy Monday, May 14 2007 17:04:12 Suggest Answer

I have a Crusader Kiln Model 220-S. Looking for information. Also anyone know what it is worth, in very EXCELLENT Condition, only been fired 4 times. I am needing to sell. Thanks!

  +  Reply Posted By: (AMACO Staff) Lori Jenkins Monday, June 4 2007 08:32:06

Please send me your complete mailing address and I'll be glad to send you whatever information is available.

Lori

Question Posted By: Jason Thursday, May 10 2007 19:19:11 Suggest Answer

I have a ton of clay that was recently subjected to a very hard winter, and has undergone the freeze thaw factor. I re-wetted the clay and puged it up, but my clay seems to be is short, “that of having no elasticity". I have let my clay age for 2 weeks after puging but it is still very short, and has no elasticity. Is their anything I can do, or ad to my clay to re-establish the elasticity that of need for wheel throwing?
Thanks, Jason

  +  Reply Posted By: Tom Tuesday, May 15 2007 14:50:31

add a sm. amount of bentonite &some ball clay i use om-4

Question Posted By: Barbara Sullivan Monday, May 7 2007 13:21:07 Suggest Answer

I too have purchased a used Amaco 2 speed Potters wheel. Is there a manual online? I am particularly wondering about the oil. What to use etc.

  +  Reply Posted By: Cathy Friday, May 25 2007 16:10:05

I don't know about the manuel, but I have used Amaco wheels from the 50's and they seem to seldom ever need work. The few that have developed oil leaks were repaired by adding automotive gear oil. It smells but it works. Now if I can only figure out how to replace the seals to prevent the leaks. They work as well as the newer (other brands) of wheels but you don't have to worry about "driving" to fast with the high and low.

  +  Reply Posted By: (AMACO Staff) Lori Jenkins Monday, June 4 2007 08:43:09

Barbara, send me the model numbers for the wheels that you have and I'll locate the information for you. You should be able to find the information on the name plate along serial numbers for your wheels.

Lori
ljenkins@amaco.com

Question Posted By: Cindy Balthazor Sunday, April 22 2007 01:18:39 Suggest Answer

I teach ceramics at a middle school and my question is how could I use Rub 'N Buff on my students projects? Or do you have any projects that I could incorporate this medium with ceramic projects. Could you add it to a glazed project, or would you have to leave that area free of glaze? How long does this product last? Would like to add a metallic touch on some of the projects we do. THANKS

  +  Reply Posted By: (AMACO Staff) Lori Jenkins Wednesday, May 2 2007 08:59:51

Hi. You can have the students apply to bisque ware. In order for the students to apply to a glazed piece you would have to - leave the area bare where you want to apply or have the area etched with an etching medium. Keep in mind these are for decorative use only and should not be used by children in grades K-6th grades. If you have further questions please contact me at www.ljenkins@amaco.com
Lori

Question Posted By: Kristin Ann Melin Friday, April 20 2007 08:59:26 Suggest Answer

Hi Lori,

Thanks for answering my question. Regarding the clay mold, I actually wanted to know if the Crea-stone can be cast into earth clay that is still wet - so I guess my question is will it react to water in the mold. I've cast plaster and concrete successfully like this, and as far as I can tell, the crea-stone behaves somewhat similarly?

Maybe I need to do some experimenting ...

Thanks,
Kristin

  +  Reply Posted By: (AMACO Staff) Lori Jenkins Wednesday, May 2 2007 09:04:38

Good mo
ing. I don't really think that it would work for you because the clay would be absorbing the moisture and therefore become soft and distort your casting. A bisque fired piece would be preferable with a release agent such as Murphy's Oil Soap or Plaster Separator.

Lori

Question Posted By: Kristin Ann Melin Sunday, April 15 2007 16:15:47 Suggest Answer

Can Crea-stone be cast into a clay mold (inside another waterproof container) to make a relief casting the same way you can do this with plaster? Will it stick to wet earth clay? Can it be rinsed in water before it is totally cured? Can it be painted with acrylics before it is totally cured?

It sounds like super cool stuff; I'm considering using it for a long term casting/carving project with 8th graders.

thanks,
Kristin

  +  Reply Posted By: (AMACO Staff) Lori Jenkins Thursday, April 19 2007 12:40:06

Kristin,

You would need to seal the clay with a lacquer or shellac, then use a release agent
and lastly add your creastone. Once it has set up (7 days) you could rinse with water. As far as painting you need to wait at least a week or so.

Lori

Question Posted By: joanne altman Friday, April 13 2007 13:01:56 Suggest Answer

I am using your crea-stone in my rubber molds
but they come out crumbly, or part comes out solid. I used a mold release and used the quantity of material and wate called for but the finished result is not satisfactory. How long should it take to set up? I would appreciate your help asap thank you..joanne

  +  Reply Posted By: (AMACO Staff) Lori Jenkins Thursday, April 19 2007 12:24:55

Joanne,

as discussed earlier it has to with the mixing ratios and the rubber mold. It will take longer for the product to setup. The appearance of the creatone should be like grainy oatmeal.

Question Posted By: judy Saturday, April 7 2007 11:58:00 Suggest Answer

We recently purchased a home with a HUGE glass shower in the master bedroom. The problem is, the glass surround has the most hideous "gold/brass look" trim. Is there a product that will allow me to change the color of the trim to a more bronze look? I was told that Rub'n Buff could be a possibility. If so, would it hold up under daily use? If not Rub'n Buff, what other options are there? Thanks.

  +  Reply Posted By: (AMACO Staff) Lori Jenkins Wednesday, April 11 2007 08:21:12

Judy,

I would not recommend usig Rub N Buff due to the moisture in the bathroom. The product will oxidize and change color. The only product that I would suggest for use would be our Brush N Leaf product. The only problem is that there are only 5 color selections 0 Gold Leaf, Silver Leaf, Antique Gold, Old Gold and Brass Gold.

Please give me a call if you need further information. 800-925-5195 ext 364.

Lori Jenkins
Technical Services

Question Posted By: M.K. Thursday, April 5 2007 13:54:08 Suggest Answer

I'm reviewing two products; Hydrostone and Crea-Stone, to use for a wall relief. I'm interested in the compounds used to create the product. Hydrostone is made of plaster of paris 90%, portland cement 5% and crystalline silica 5%. But I can not find the compound breakdown for Crea-Stone. Please, can you help?

  +  Reply Posted By: (AMACO Staff) Lori Jenkins Wednesday, April 11 2007 07:40:41

The only thing that I can tell you is that it is like a light weight cement. It is a very good product for sculptures and wall reliefs. Send me you email address and I'll be glad to send you the instructions for working with the product that may be of some help to you.

Lori
ljenkins@amaco.com

Question Posted By: Dawn Kleinman Tuesday, April 3 2007 12:50:53 Suggest Answer

I have a Crusader 220S kiln. All the elements work. After 2 hrs on low, 2 hrs on medium and 8 hrs on high - it gets to about a cone 06. I need it to get to a cone 6. I have a friend that is an electrician (who also had installed it for me). My local pottery supply place suggested rewiring it and replacing the relays. What do you suggest and do you have any diagrams for the electrisian?

Thanks

  +  Reply Posted By: (AMACO Staff) Lori Jenkins Wednesday, April 11 2007 07:29:00

Dawn,

Could you send me the following information on the kiln? Serial number, voltage and your complete mailing address. I'll try to locate some information on this kiln for you, but I seriously believe that you need to replace all elements in the kiln. The maximum firing temp for this kiln is Cone 10.

Lori

Question Posted By: Kim Norgren Saturday, March 31 2007 13:07:57 Suggest Answer

Could you identify the products being used in the Studio Shots? I'm interested in the large sculptures.

I'd also like to know if there are any usage tips on creastone -- for example, can it be used over armatures to create large (3'+) open forms, or can it be built up in stages similar to building a clay coil form? Or can it only be used to build solid blocks?

Thanks,
Kim

Question Posted By: ruth Wednesday, March 28 2007 17:04:21 Suggest Answer

I would like to purchase "princess of dawn"
#693 I think it was made by American Art
Clay an help would be appreciated

Thanks

Ruth

  +  Reply Posted By: (AMACO Staff) Lori Jenkins Wednesday, April 11 2007 07:45:06

Ruth,

Are your referring to one of the earlier pieces made by AMACO?


Lori Jenkins
ljenkins@amaco.com

Question Posted By: RGomez Tuesday, March 27 2007 13:38:54 Suggest Answer

Does anyone know of any upcoming underglazing workshops.

  +  Reply Posted By: (AMACO Staff) Lori Jenkins Wednesday, April 11 2007 07:48:09

The only thing that I'm aware of right now is the workshop with Linda Arbuckle on October 12-13, 2007. Surface Decorations Using Majolica. You can call 800-677-3289 for further information.


Lori Jenkins
ljenkins@amaco.com

Question Posted By: Robin Falk Wednesday, March 21 2007 00:47:41 Suggest Answer

I've purchased a used Amaco potter's wheel, model number 1-101. Can you tell me how to obtain an operator's manual for it?

Thank you,

Robin Falk

  +  Reply Posted By: (AMACO Staff) Lori Jenkins Wednesday, April 11 2007 07:49:49

Robin,

Send me your complete mailing address and I'll try to locate some information for you.


Lori Jenkins
ljenkins@amaco.com

Question Posted By: Dina Hodara Bono Wednesday, March 14 2007 18:29:40 Suggest Answer

Hi. I created a plaster mold and would like to cast a piece from it. I was very happy to find sculptamold in my local art supply shop. When I read the package, it said that the product works with "sized" plaster molds. What does this mean? How can I size the mold? Also, do I need to apply anything to the mold to make the sculptamold piece pop out afterwards without harming the plaster mold?

  +  Reply Posted By: (AMACO Staff) Lori Jenkins Wednesday, April 11 2007 07:55:57

Dina,

Sculptamold has plaster in the mix so you will need to seal your original with a lacquer or va
ish. After drying you would then apply Plaster Separator by either brush, dipping or spraying. Allow to dry to a film. And lastly begin applying the Sculptamold. Once the product has started to set up (20-30 minutes) you need to release and allow it to finish drying (24-48 hours)

Lori

Question Posted By: Elizabeth A. Dillion Tuesday, March 13 2007 13:17:24 Suggest Answer

I have purchase your porcelain clay (self dry) and was wondering if I could mend any chalkware made in the 1950's. Will it adhere. The chips are small and behind the protruding edges. I also was wondering is chalkware sold for amature use by your company or do you know of anyone. Any informtion on where I can get chalkware information. E. Stelling, image.elizabeth@juno.com

  +  Reply Posted By: (AMACO Staff) Lori Jenkins Wednesday, April 11 2007 08:27:09

Elizabeth,

I can't really tell you if it will work or not. Since chalkware is basically Plaster of Paris, I would suggest using our Casting Compound to do the repair. If you have further questions please feel fre to contact me at your convenience. www.ljenkins@amaco.com

Lori

Question Posted By: Mary Hughes Friday, March 2 2007 14:12:30 Suggest Answer

Why can't I find the porcelain-like poly faces used to make jewelry pins and other jewelry pieces? I used to make beautiful pins using Friendly Plastic and the faces, but I can't find the faces anymore. Does anyone know if you can still buy them anywhere? I would appreciate knowing if where I can purchase them. I get a lot of requests from customers for the pins.
Thank you, Mary Hughes

  +  Reply Posted By: ruth Wednesday, March 28 2007 17:00:03

you can purchase the faces at nationalartcraft.com I just received a new
catalog and I think this is what you would like good luck!

  +  Reply Posted By: (AMACO Staff) Lori Jenkins Wednesday, April 11 2007 08:07:50

Mary,

We have the porcelain faces in our catalog and on our website. Medium (looking up) #14142D, Front Profile Small #14143F, Left Profile #14146M, Left Profile Large # 14147H, Left Profile medim (looking down) #14144E, Left Profile #14145K & Left Profle medium (brown) # 14148L. If you have further questions please give me a call or email me.

Lori
ljenkins@amaco.com
800-925-5195 ext 364

Question Posted By: drewP Friday, March 2 2007 11:56:49 Suggest Answer

I am interested in using the "wire form" products and would like to know if they have a finish on them to prevent ta
ishing, are they anodized or what type finish is good? I am looking to preserve their original "shiny" finish. thank you!

  +  Reply Posted By: (AMACO Staff) Lori Jenkins Wednesday, April 11 2007 07:01:14

Drew, The wireform that we have in the catalog does not have a protective finish on them and therefore are subject to oxidation. You could spray them with a clear spray which will give them some protection. Feel free to contact me if you have further questions. www.ljenkins@amaco.com

Question Posted By: Katie Bensky Tuesday, February 27 2007 12:13:00 Suggest Answer

I am interested in sculpting childrens busts. I haven't worked at home since recieveing my M.A. in sculpture 10 years ago. I need to purschase a tu
table of some sort, clay and some type of amarture. I prefer to fire these busts rather then make a mold. There is a place in town that could fire them for me. Can you recommend the above. I appreciate your help!
Katie

  +  Reply Posted By: (AMACO Staff) Lori Jenkins Wednesday, February 28 2007 15:08:07

Katie,

We have alot of products that may be of interest to you. Could you please send me you mailing address and I'll send out the catalog for you to review. I'll also make some suggestions that I think will be helpful to you at that time. My email address is ljenkins@amaco.com

Question Posted By: Jeff Saturday, February 24 2007 21:06:38 Suggest Answer

I am trying to make a tunnel entrance for mountains on a train set by using molding clay. What product can I use to coat the clay with to stop it from cracking when it dries? Thanks Jeff.

  +  Reply Posted By: (AMACO Staff) Lori Jenkins Wednesday, February 28 2007 15:12:16

Jeff,

If you are using a waterbased clay around an armature I'm sorry but it will continue to crack due to the clay shrinkig as it's drying. I would like to suggest that you use our product "Sculptamold" for this project. It is used in making the landscapes, tunnels etc for the railroad systems. It is a dry mix that you can use an armature with. Use two parts dry mix(after shaking the bag) and 1 part water. and begin applying to your form.

Lori Jenkins
Technical Services

  +  Reply Posted By: (AMACO Staff) Lori Jenkins Wednesday, April 11 2007 06:54:50

Sorry that we've not gotten back with you before now. You need to use and oil base clay (Permoplast)if your using an armature. If you would like to continue using the waterbased clay the tunnel would need to be made with clay only to allow for the shrinkage that is occurring. Another product that will work with an armature is our product Sculptamold. You might be interested in seeing our kit called you build a mountain on our website.

Lori

Question Posted By: Jamie Saturday, February 24 2007 11:47:44 Suggest Answer

I received some clay as a gift and I have no idea what kind it is. I think it is a low fire terra cotta. I made a planter pot and put it in the oven at 265 degrees for 35 minutes. After being in the oven I put water in it to see if it would work. The clay just became soft again. Do I need to add sealant or use a kiln or both? This is my first experience working with clay and I have to say I really enjoy it. I could use some advice, please!
Thank You,
Jamie

  +  Reply Posted By: (AMACO Staff) Lori Jenkins Wednesday, February 28 2007 15:15:52

Jamie,

If the clay is a low fire clay it needs to be fire in a ceramic kiln at 1975ºF for approx. 8-10 hours. This will then harden the clay for you and then you can decorate with acrylics or you could glaze it but the glaze then would have to be fired once again in a kiln. CAll me if you have further questions at 800-925-5195 ext 364.

Lori Jenkins
Technical Services

Question Posted By: jeff Saturday, February 24 2007 10:47:55 Suggest Answer

i am making clay tunnel sculptures for a train set what can you apply to the clay sculpture to keep it from cracking while it is drying

Question Posted By: Laura Thursday, February 22 2007 18:26:09 Suggest Answer

I have shiny brass light fixtures, bathroom towel racks and door handles (some are solid brass but most are just brass plated) in my house that I would like to make look like aged or antiqued brass. Could you please give me some suggestions on how to achieve this look?

Thank you,
Laura

  +  Reply Posted By: (AMACO Staff) Lori Jenkins Wednesday, February 28 2007 15:20:42

Laura,

I would suggest using our product called Brush N Leaf Brass Gold. This is a liquid metallic paint that I believe will do the trick for you. It also has non-ta
ishing properties which is good because of the moist conditions in the bathroom. Call me if you have further questions. (800) 925-5195 ext 364

Lori Jenkins
Technical Services

Question Posted By: Bill Monday, February 19 2007 15:27:07 Suggest Answer

I have three exterior antique brass light fixtures(not sure if they are actually brass or just a metal with that finish). I want to change the finish to a dark brown oil rubbed bronze finish. I read elsewhere that someone achieved this look combining the ebony and spanish copper rub n buff. My question is will this finish last outside? Will a coat of clear polyurethane adhere to the rub n buff? Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Bill

  +  Reply Posted By: (AMACO Staff) Lori Jenkins Wednesday, February 21 2007 08:27:43

Good mo
ing, Bill. You can achieve the effect your looking for with those colors. To seal this you can use either AMACO All Purpose Sealer or Krylon Workable Fixative. Polyurethane or va
ish will not work on this product.

Lori Jenkins
Technical Services
ljenkins@amaco.com

Question Posted By: M Montalvo Monday, February 19 2007 13:00:07 Suggest Answer

I have an Amaco pug mill model B. I inherited it without instructions or tool. Do any of you have the instructions on how to take it appart to clean it? A parts list would also be usefull. Currently the motor does not tu
the screws. I was told it may need a 'shear pin'. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

  +  Reply Posted By: (AMACO Staff) Lori Jenkins Wednesday, February 21 2007 08:44:19

Please email me you mailing address and I'll try to locate the information you need. My email address is ljenkins@amaco.com


Lori

Question Posted By: Jack Lester Sunday, February 18 2007 15:56:29 Suggest Answer

I recently bought a used Brent slab roller. The equipment was unassembled when I purchased it. I am looking for directions on how to set up the cable for the roller. Are there any manuals online that give specific directions on how the cables are to be attached?

  +  Reply Posted By: (AMACO Staff) Lori Jenkins Wednesday, February 21 2007 08:46:47

Please send me your fax or mailing address to send you the information you need. Also you need to check the side plate for the model number so that you receive the correct information. My email address is ljenkins@amaco.com


Lori

Question Posted By: Yannick Sunday, February 18 2007 10:46:52 Suggest Answer

I want to use the Amaco pint glazes as a dip glaze and I would like to know how much water to add to the pint glaze to be dip ready.
Thank you.

  +  Reply Posted By: (AMACO Staff) Lori Jenkins Wednesday, February 21 2007 08:49:02

Please refer to the email previously sent to you on 2/20/07.


Lori

Question Posted By: Donna Culp Wednesday, February 7 2007 09:03:39 Suggest Answer

I also have some crea-stone. I was wondering what ratio to water to mix it with. Also, does it stick to molds?
Thanks.

  +  Reply Posted By: (AMACO Staff) Lori Jenkins Thursday, February 15 2007 13:27:26

Donna,

When mixing Crea-stone, use the following mixing ratios. 5 lbs dry mix and a total of 3 1/2 pints of water. It should have the appearance of grainy oatmeal. Also you do need to use a release agent in your molds. Plastor Separator etc. The release agent will depend on the mold itself. Send me your email address and I'll be glad to email you the mixing instructions. My email address is ljenkins@amaco.com

Question Posted By: Sharon Mulholland Tuesday, February 6 2007 17:57:07 Suggest Answer

I have the opportunity to purchase a crusader kiln, model 274S. It has no manual, how would I go about obtaining one?

  +  Reply Posted By: (AMACO Staff) Lori Jenkins Thursday, February 15 2007 14:04:52

Sharon,

Send me your complete mailing address and I be glad to send you the information. My email address is ljenkins@amaco.com


Lori

Question Posted By: Walt Davis Monday, February 5 2007 15:25:54 Suggest Answer

I recently obtained a Crusader kiln model 227S. All the elements heat up, but after firing for 16 hours it had yet to achieve cone 04.

I'm looking for any help. It would be great if anyone had any technical data on the kiln as well.

Thanks.
Walt

  +  Reply Posted By: (AMACO Staff) Lori Jenkins Thursday, February 15 2007 14:03:23

Walt,

It sounds as though you need to replace the elements. Send me your complete mailing address and I'll be glad to send you the information that I have on your kiln along with pricing for your elements. Make sure that you indicate the voltage as well. My email adress is ljenkins@amacom.com

Question Posted By: sally Saturday, February 3 2007 14:20:11 Suggest Answer

Hi
I recently made a lidded cassearole dish with your white amoco low fired tin glaze and gdc glaze red over the inside of the dish. A pottery friend told me that she had just read an article that there is something called sale
ia? in the glaze which is poisonous. Please let me know if i should be conce
ed? Sally

  +  Reply Posted By: (AMACO Staff) Lori Jenkins Thursday, February 15 2007 13:56:02

Sally,

I'm not for sure what your friend has indicated to you. If you have used our LG 11 Opaque White glaze and the GDC 53 or 54 your ware should be dinnerware safe when firing according to our instructions. Please feel free to contact at your convenience to discuss the matter. My number is 900-925-5195 ext 364.

Lori

Question Posted By: Tracy Melvin Wednesday, January 31 2007 17:38:25 Suggest Answer

I know NOTHING about clay but I want to make some decorative tiles with photos transfered onto them. I do not have access to a kiln. What is the best clay to use and what is the best way to do this?

  +  Reply Posted By: (AMACO Staff) Lori Jenkins Thursday, February 15 2007 13:52:35

Tracey,

The process that you want to do is making a decal from your photographs and it will require that these be fired onto the tile in a kiln. I'll be glad to send you the procedure just email me your mailing address to ljenkins@amaco.com.

Question Posted By: Lonna Simmons Tuesday, January 30 2007 15:53:23 Suggest Answer

I'm a teacher that inherited an

AMACO JS65
Serial number JS65447
10 kw
43.5 amps
240volt
with a max fire of 2350 or cone 10

It is in serious need of repair, (again) is there someone you could recommend in the Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania area that has experience fixing kilns? I am desperate.
Thanks!-Lonna

  +  Reply Posted By: (AMACO Staff) Lori Jenkins Thursday, February 15 2007 13:44:27

Lonna,

Try the Clay Place at 412-682-3737. Talk with Elviria Peake.

Lori

Question Posted By: Joanne Mills Monday, January 29 2007 09:03:27 Suggest Answer

"today's creative homearts" magazine and Jan. Feb Issue. Page 66 a 3-D Memories project by Tonja Lenderman used Amaco wireframes holder, wiremesh and fimo soft polymer clay. I am unable to locate the project sheet. I found all the suppies.

Question Posted By: Denna Wednesday, January 24 2007 15:04:58 Suggest Answer

I am wanting to create hand-carved tiles for installation in a swimming pool. What kind of clay should be used and at what temperature should the clay be fired to withstand water and temperature changes of the outside? If anyone knows about swimming pool tiles please reply.

  +  Reply Posted By: (AMACO Staff) Lori Jenkins Thursday, January 25 2007 07:15:27

Denna,

If your dealing with the freeze thaw factor, you need to work with either stneware or porcelain clay bodies. Cone 5 or higher.

Lori

Question Posted By: tom Tuesday, January 16 2007 21:50:21 Suggest Answer

I PREVIOUSLY ASKED ABOUT CLAY THAT IS CRACKING WHILE DRYING.
I FORGOT TO WRITE THAT I AM NOT FIRING MY SCLUPTURES. WOULD THERE BE A CERTAIN CLAY I SHOULD USE THAT MIGHT NOT CRACK IF JUST AIR DRYIED. PRESENTLY I AM USING X15. AFTER ABOUT ONE OR TWO YEARS SMALL THIN CRACKS ARE HAPPENING IT LOOKS BAD AND UNFIT FOR SALE. PLEASE HELP THANKS---TOM

  +  Reply Posted By: (AMACO Staff) Lori Jenkins Monday, January 22 2007 09:35:06

Tom,

The one thing you didn't mention is whether or not your sealing your sculptures. If not I would suggest using the AMACO All Purpose Sealer. This will water proof your clay. Also some other clays which probably work for you would be Marblex, Mexican or Stonex Modeling Clays. Their self hardening and should take care of the problems that your experiencing. If you have further questions please feel free to contact me at ljenkins@amaco.com

Question Posted By: tom Tuesday, January 16 2007 20:44:05 Suggest Answer

I AM USING AMACO CLAY X-15. I AM MAKING SCULPTURES OF PEOPLES FACES. WHEN THEY DRY IS ALWAYS CRACKS IN THE SAME SPOT. I LET IT DRY SLOW AND IT SEEMS TO MAKE CIRCULAR CRACK LINES I THINK BECAUSE IT IT DRYING FROM THE OUTER EDGES FIRST AND THEN TOWARD THE INNER AREAS.
WHAT CAUSES CRACKING AND WHAT CAN I DO TO STOP IT. I ALSO HAVE CREATED FULL SCULPTURES OF HEADS (BUSTS).THE LATEST ONE I AM TRYING TO HOLLOW OUT SO IT IS NOT SO SOLID IS THAT GOOD?
THANK YOU FOR
YOUR TIME. --- TOM

  +  Reply Posted By: (AMACO Staff) Lori Jenkins Thursday, February 15 2007 13:38:37

Good afte
oon, Tom. Sorry for the delay in responding to your inquiry. Sometimes this will happens when you have sculptures that have varying degrees of thickness. Do you have any kind of armature within the masks? Also it is a good idea to try and hollow out your sculptures to help even out the drying process. Please email me at ljenkins@amaco with your drying technique.

Question Posted By: Laurie Monday, January 15 2007 13:03:12 Suggest Answer

Recently purchased a Brent ie Potter's Wheel and can't seem to get the wheel leveled. Table is level on the floor, but the wheel is not, having a hard time centering clay. Any suggestions or help would greatly help!

  +  Reply Posted By: Noelle Friday, January 19 2007 13:14:00

try using small scraps of carpet or green 3-M pads are the best, under each leg, if still not level. Use more pieces on the one that is the problem.

Question Posted By: scott Sunday, January 14 2007 02:32:54 Suggest Answer

After I create a mold with plaster, what product or method can I use to coat the mold before filling with more plaster, so that it wont stick when I seperate the final cast. In the past, I used a small amount of water-based clay mixed with water to achieve the non-stick. But, now I have switched to an oil-based clay. Please help. Scott

  +  Reply Posted By: Noelle Friday, January 19 2007 13:05:21

I use Murphy's oil soap with water mixed at 3 parts Murphy's and one part water. Happy molding!

Question Posted By: Janice Carlin Monday, January 1 2007 09:53:06 Suggest Answer

I'm having a problem with some of the Velvet colors bubbling and blistering when firing tiles. I use an Airpen to apply three even coats (various colors on each tile), allowing each coat to dry ove
ight. Dip each tile in Amaco LG10 - 2 coats, allowing the first to dry at least 6 hours, the second ove
ight. Fire to witness 05. Some colors come out beautifully, others bubble and blister or crack and peel. One tile may have three colors that come out fine, two that don't. I'm seeing more problems with browns and greens than other colors. Thoughts?

  +  Reply Posted By: amy Wednesday, January 3 2007 08:36:46

you may want to try firing the underglaze onto the tile before glaze firing it. i've had similar problems with underglazes not working out correctly, this typically fixes it. also, i fire to 04 (but thats not really a big difference)

  +  Reply Posted By: (AMACO Staff) Lori Jenkins Thursday, January 4 2007 09:44:05

Janice,

I would suggest that you apply the underglazes and fire them to Cone 04 (1975ºF) at a medium speed to set the underglazes. Also dip the tile once not twice as this may be two much glaze for what your doing. Fire to a good solid cone 05 (1915-1925ºF.) Feel free to contact me if you have further questions. My email address is ljenkins@amaco.com.

Question Posted By: Lisa Friday, December 15 2006 19:14:45 Suggest Answer

I thought that I could fire my student's art projects with the Amaco LG-10 glazes as an underglaze on their greenware and still get glossy results. I fired at cone 05 and the glazes are dull/matt finish. Can add a clear coat of LG10 clear glaze and fire again at 05 to get glossy results?

Thanks for the help!
Lisa

  +  Reply Posted By: (AMACO Staff) Lori Jenkins Thursday, January 4 2007 09:35:46

Lisa,

LG 10 is a clear gloss glaze and can be applied to greenware. From your description it sounds as though the kiln did not get to temperature. Just refire the pieces without adding more glaze to them and this time fire to Cone 04 (1975ºF). Do a slow firing (about 10 hours) and don't pack the kiln tight.

Lori

Question Posted By: Kary Monday, December 11 2006 11:26:03 Suggest Answer

I have been using Amaco Versa clay #20 in my classroom for about one school year now, because I like the way it handles the thick walled student sculptures. On my own work however, It cracks unpredictably in the kiln- Seems to have trouble with crazing no matter what glazes I use. I have tried all of the common solutions: slow cool, higher bisque etc. but I would like to know what glaze series IS compatable shrinkage-wise with this clay?

  +  Reply Posted By: (AMACO Staff) Lori Jenkins Friday, December 15 2006 07:24:04

Kary,

If you are bisque firing the clay at a good cone 04 (1975ºF - 10 hours) and glazing at a Cone 05 (1915-1925º - 8 hours)you should be doing okay. How long are you allowing the clay to dry before bisque firing? What glazes are you using and what temperatures are you firing at? My email is ljenkins@amaco.com.


Lori

Question Posted By: Paul kricorian Sunday, December 10 2006 10:51:46 Suggest Answer

What is the approximate working time for "American clay Marblex Self-Hardening Gray Clay". If it is short, what can I add to extend it's working time. I am a classroom 3D technology design teacher - projects can take up to three-four days...hence the question. Thanks in advance for your assitance. Paul K

  +  Reply Posted By: (AMACO Staff) Lori Jenkins Friday, December 15 2006 07:11:50

Paul,

When working with Marblex, Stonex or Mexican Pottery clays you can slow down the drying time by spritzing with water and then draping with plastic. At the end of the project and you do want it to dry then just remove the plastic and dry on a drying rack. It ususally takes 24 to 48 hours to dry.

Lori

Question Posted By: sonia becker Saturday, December 9 2006 16:32:40 Suggest Answer

I've tried out the Blue Rutile PC20 by applying it thickly to bisque and low firing.The resulting colour is nothing even vaguely resembling the colour chart and there is absolutely no trace of blue at all. Instead I get a dull brown! What am I doing wrong?

  +  Reply Posted By: (AMACO Staff) Lori Jenkins Friday, December 15 2006 07:08:19

Sonia,


PC 20 Blue Rutile is a high fire glaze that fires at Cone 4 (2161ºF) to Cone 6 (2269ºF. I believe your trying to fire at a low fire temperature. Also be sure to use either a stoneware or porcelain clay body (high fire). If you have it on a high fire clay just refire to the correct temperature.

Lori

Question Posted By: Lisa Monday, December 4 2006 20:51:41 Suggest Answer

Looking for a users manual for American Beauty Model AB18 kiln, can anyone help?

  +  Reply Posted By: (AMACO Staff) Lori Jenkins Friday, December 15 2006 07:05:04

Lisa,

I'm sorry but I do not have the manual for this kiln.

Lori

Question Posted By: Karen Klaehn Sunday, December 3 2006 14:23:39 Suggest Answer

I inherited quite a few boxes of permoplast modeling clay from the art teacher before me. Can this clay be hardened by baking it?

  +  Reply Posted By: (AMACO Staff) Lori Jenkins Friday, December 15 2006 07:04:03

Karen,

This is an oil based clay and cannot be baked. It is strictly for hand building so that the clay can be reused.


Lori

Question Posted By: Ashley Sunday, November 26 2006 15:11:34 Suggest Answer

Hello,
I am an elementary arts and humanities teacher in KY and have never used clay. I have purchased AMACO white art clay for my students to make pinch pots and Christmas o
aments. I was wondering how long I need to let the clay dry before I fire them? I also am not real sure if I put the glaze on before I fire or not? Also, if I want the pieces to be painted is it possible to use Tempra paint and if so does it go on before or after the gaze?

Thanks,
Ashley

  +  Reply Posted By: (AMACO Staff) Lori Jenkins Friday, December 15 2006 07:02:15

Ashley,

I apologize for not getting back sooner. The clay needs to dry for at least 7-10 days and then you can fire to a Cone 04. When glazing the students can use underglazes or glazes firing to Cone 05.

Lori

Question Posted By: Chris Thursday, November 23 2006 00:40:14 Suggest Answer

Hello,
I purchased Moist Pottery Clay X-15. I want to make wind chimes with this clay. I am wondering if I would need to glaze the chime or leave it in bisque form using some kind of sealer? I want it to have a good chime and is there anything you can recommend so it has a pretty chime, ie; no glaze verses glazes?
Also what is the breakage rate of this clay for what I will be using it for? I will be using thickness of about 1/4 to 1/2 inches.
Can you recommend a better clay in the future? I just picked this up because it was a great price and would be my first time making my chimes out of clay. I have used earthenware slip casting and it just does not seem to hold up to well without chipping or breakage of some sort...
Thanks for any help
Happy Holidays
Chris

  +  Reply Posted By: (AMACO Staff) Lori Jenkins Friday, December 15 2006 06:59:41

Chris,

I would recommend that you bisque fire to a good Cone 04 (1975ºF) at a slow speed (8-10 hours) and then glaze if your wanting to have color on the chimes. You can use either underglazes (LUG's, V's, GDC's, DV's or V1S's) with a clear glaze (HF 9) or you can use any of the HF's or PC Glazes. This is a high fire stoneware so your should have a pretty good chime.


Lori

Question Posted By: Leslie Wentzell Tuesday, November 21 2006 18:42:35 Suggest Answer

Does the dry Amaco Kiln Cement have a shelf life? I have a box which was given to me by a retired potter, and I have some cracks and chips I need to repair.The box I have does not have instructions in it or on it. Are there specific instructions?

  +  Reply Posted By: (AMACO Staff) Lori Jenkins Monday, November 27 2006 14:11:12

Leslie,

There is no specific shelf life on the product. As long as it was kept dry it should be fine. I would measure out what you need and gradually add a little water at a time time till you get it into a good thick paste consistency.

Lori

Question Posted By: Mike Monday, November 20 2006 12:58:57 Suggest Answer

I want to find a clay or glaze that will give me a cracked mud puddle look. No just a crackle glaze but something more textured that I can then stain with masonry stain to get the look I want.

  +  Reply Posted By: (AMACO Staff) Lori Jenkins Monday, November 27 2006 14:15:19

Mike the only thing that I can think of would be our Arroya Specialty glazes. The heavier the application the larger the break up.


Lori Jenkins

Question Posted By: Tracy Wednesday, November 15 2006 18:38:57 Suggest Answer

Does anyone know where I can locate a manual for an American Beauty kiln model number LT4K?

  +  Reply Posted By: (AMACO Staff) Lori Jenkins Friday, November 17 2006 08:55:39

Tracy,

The number your giving is for the kiln sitter which I can help you with. You'll find your kiln model number on the side plate with your serial number. Send me your mailing address and I'll be glad to mail you the kiln sitter booklet.

Lori Jenkins
ljenkins@amaco.com

Question Posted By: Lori Apgar Wednesday, November 15 2006 09:11:43 Suggest Answer

While attending the VAEA Conference in Roanoke, Va, I purchased 5 new low fire Amaco glazes from a vendor. I have made 2 sets of tester tiles for my students and the Iron Saturate A-32 and Peacock A-28 look EXACTLY the same. Are they that similar or could one be mismarked? Thank you for your help. Lori Apgar, Rockbridge County High School, Lexington, Va.

  +  Reply Posted By: (AMACO Staff) Lori Jenkins Friday, November 17 2006 08:53:15

Lori,

The two glazes that you have are very similar in appearance. The A 28 Peacock has a little more of the green appearance than A 32 Iron Saturate. When using the A 28 make sure you fire it more slowly than the others and add a 20 minute hold at the end of firing cycle.


Lori Jenkins

Question Posted By: Stacy Garner Friday, November 10 2006 10:24:47 Suggest Answer

I saw an old article in Ceramics Today about making ceramic decals. The article referenced material and technique from Amaco.

http://www.ceramicstoday.com/articles/visgirda-decals2.htm

Could I get a list of materials needed and a technique sheet?

Thanks in advance.

  +  Reply Posted By: (AMACO Staff) Lori Jenkins Tuesday, November 14 2006 08:58:18

Stacy,

We do have some of the materials and the decal making process technique. Send me you complete mailing address and I'll be glad to mail the information out. My email address is ljenkins@amaco.com

Lori

Question Posted By: Julie Thursday, November 9 2006 08:44:23 Suggest Answer

Your liquid gloss (LG-10) label says to apply 3 brush coats. After I let the first coat dry I tried to apply a second, but it just takes the first coat off. What am I doing wrong? The piece was fired to cone 04 before I applied the first coat.
Thanks.

  +  Reply Posted By: (AMACO Staff) Lori Jenkins Friday, November 10 2006 07:16:44

Good Mo
ing, Julie. Either your application is to heavy or the first coat has not dried enough. Make sure that you mix the glaze thoroughly to a cream consistency. Apply one thin coat and allow to dry (10-15 minutes)and then apply your second application. It really isn't necessary to apply the third coat. Fire to witness Cone 05 (1915-25ºF). The firing should be at a med. speed. Also make sure that your bisque was fired to Cone 04 (1975ºF) at a slow speed.

Lori Jenkins
Technical Services

Question Posted By: kalpana Wednesday, November 1 2006 12:07:32 Suggest Answer

hey,
I want to know what type of paint we can use on the stoneware(for decoration).
Can anyone tell me where can i get that in us.

Thanks

Regards,
kalpana.

  +  Reply Posted By: (AMACO Staff) Lori Jenkins Wednesday, November 8 2006 11:25:24

Kalpana,

You can use any of the following glaze series for your ware - Sahara High Fire, Celebration, Potter's Choice, Pompeian Ash, or Stone Texture glazes. They can purchased at Brickyard Ceramics (800) 677-3289 or on line at www.butamaco.com.

Lori

Question Posted By: Crystal Thursday, October 26 2006 16:14:18 Suggest Answer

Hello,
Never sculpted before. I want to sculpt/mold a saddle to sit on a mailbox. Brown and preferrably waterproof. What clay would you suggest? Can it later be cut apart so a mold can be made from it?

Thanks!

  +  Reply Posted By: (AMACO Staff) Lori Jenkins Monday, October 30 2006 13:11:39

Crystal,

I would suggest that you try Permoplast Modeling Clay. This is an oil based clay that should meet your needs. It's packaged in the following - 1 lb 90056G , 5 lbs 90076D (20 - 1/4 lb sticks), Bulk 90106L & 50 lbs.(200 - 1/4 lb Sticks) 91228F. The numbers being given are for the brown color.

Lori

Question Posted By: Vanessa Sunday, October 22 2006 09:34:41 Suggest Answer

Can Plast-i-clay modeling clay be baked in the oven to harden?

  +  Reply Posted By: (AMACO Staff) Lori Jenkins Tuesday, October 24 2006 15:05:03

Vanessa,

Plast-i-clay is an oil based clay and cannot be baked in an oven. It is stickly just for hand building and firming in the air. This is a reuseable modeling clay.

Lori

Question Posted By: Janet Friday, October 13 2006 20:08:29 Suggest Answer

I have an EC-45 electric kiln but I do not have the operating manual. What is the firing process? I fire at cone 06 bisque and cone 4 and cone 6 glazes. For bisque, is there a specific amount of time for each temperature level? What is the sequence for glazing?

Thank You,
Janet

  +  Reply Posted By: (AMACO Staff) Lori Jenkins Monday, October 16 2006 13:46:12

Janet,

Send me your mailing address and I will send you the materials that you need.

For bisque you need to fire to Cone 04 at a slow speed. And your glaze firing should be at a medium speed.

ljenkins@amaco.com


Lori Jenkins

Question Posted By: Z Jacobson Thursday, October 5 2006 17:50:47 Suggest Answer

I recently bought Sun Strokes Old formula and love the colors, brightness etc but am conce
ed about the lead in the underglazes. How dangerous is it and can you recommend the safest way to use leaded glazes.

thanxs

  +  Reply Posted By: (AMACO Staff) Lori Jenkins Tuesday, October 10 2006 14:23:11

When working with leaded glazes or underglazes you basically - do not eat, drink or smoke while using. Wash hands after use. These products are always brush applied and not sprayed. I also would probably wear and apron to protect your clothes. If you have other questions please feel free to contact me at your convenience at ljenkins@amaco.com.

Lori

Question Posted By: Laura Medeiros Thursday, September 28 2006 10:22:58 Suggest Answer

I want to reglaze some china to make them look new again. I found some info on the inte
et but am wondering whether anyone has tips for me and whether or not you have a product for this. Just the surface where the food goes is wo
away and scratched. The underside of all the dishes are fine as well as all the serving pieces which do not get used as often. Welcome any and all ideas? HELP!

  +  Reply Posted By: (AMACO Staff) Lori Jenkins Tuesday, October 3 2006 13:41:02

Laura,

The only product that might work for what your attempting would be our Majolica Gloss Decorating Colors. When firing onto your ware be sure to fire to a Cone 03. You can see the color selection on our website. Go to the underglazes to view the color selection. I would suggest that you try doing a sample piece to see if it will do the job for you.


Lori

Question Posted By: DAVID SPRAIN Thursday, September 21 2006 13:31:18 Suggest Answer

I WANT TO MAKE A LARGE (10"-12")WATERFALL FOR MY TERRIUM. IT HAS ABOUT 6" OF WATER IN IT. I DO NOT HAVE A KILN AND I AM FINDING IT HARD TO FIND SOME ONE WITH ONE.
I HAVE PURCHASED STONEX AIR DRY CLAY AND I ALSO INTEND TO PAINT AND SEAL IT.
IS THIS GOING TO BE SAFE FOR FISH & REPTILES?
ALSO WHAT PAINTS & SEALERS DO YOU RECOMEND?
IF THE CLAY IS NOT SAFE, THEN WHAT CLAY DO YOU RECOMENT?

  +  Reply Posted By: (AMACO Staff) Lori Jenkins Tuesday, October 3 2006 13:30:56

David,

I'm sorry but the clay that you have is not a good clay to use for your project. You need to use a kiln fired body that has atleast been bisque fired. You may want to check at your local YMCA or high school to see if they can help you out with the clay firing.

Stonex is not waterproof and if even a pin hole was left in the sealer, the water may leach into the clay piece and it could fall apart. Sorry.

Lori

Question Posted By: Emily Thursday, September 14 2006 20:57:06 Suggest Answer

I have a 25-lb box of Crea-Stone, given as a gift. There are no mixing instructions. What do I do with this stuff?

E.

  +  Reply Posted By: (AMACO Staff) Lori Jenkins Tuesday, September 19 2006 07:23:17

Emily,

This is a great product to create sculptures with. Usually the mixing instructions are on the inside or on the carton itself. Send me your email address and I'll send them over to you. My email is ljenkins@amaco.com

Lori

Question Posted By: monica Thursday, September 14 2006 07:31:43 Suggest Answer

i have some gilt thai statues the old brass ones the gold paint is wearing off which shade is the best of gold for me to buy to touch them up on there crowns and costumes?thank you.monica

  +  Reply Posted By: (AMACO Staff) Lori Jenkins Tuesday, September 19 2006 07:25:37

Monica,

You might to have a look at our product lines - Rub n Buff or Brush N Leaf. Either one of these lines would work. You can see the colors on our website.

Lori

Question Posted By: evelyn Monday, August 28 2006 20:13:30 Suggest Answer

where do i get the bead roller from.

  +  Reply Posted By: (AMACO Staff) James Tuesday, September 12 2006 08:14:43

Hello,
The Bead Roller is available from Michael's, Hobby Lobby, Jo Ann's, Brickyard Ceramics or alte
atively on our website www.buyamaco.com
Thanks

Question Posted By: mom Friday, August 25 2006 16:52:10 Suggest Answer

what medium is used to adhere a photo on a ceramic tile

  +  Reply Posted By: (AMACO Staff) Lori Jenkins Monday, August 28 2006 10:18:40

Usually this is accomplished by making a decal from your photo.


Lori Jenkins
Technical Services

  +  Reply Posted By: BJ Wednesday, November 1 2006 05:17:49

I am interested in this as well. Have tried having decals made then placing on bisque and firing in my kiln. The photo disintegrated...any suggestions?

Question Posted By: Mike Tuesday, August 22 2006 22:45:18 Suggest Answer

I remember in class (i think i remeber that is) that we used underglaze on all sides of greenware without reguard to it sticking to the shelf upon firing.

I have several of the Velvet underglaze products that i was going to fire, and the folks at the studio say it will stick.

Will the underglaze stick, or not?

thanks

  +  Reply Posted By: (AMACO Staff) Lori Jenkins Wednesday, August 23 2006 08:46:31

Mike,

Underglazes will not stick to the shelves unless you have a clear glaze covering them.
This is firing them at Cone 03 thru Cone 05.

If you plan on taking them to Cone 5 they may start to gloss so you may want to stilt the pieces.

Lori

Question Posted By: Katie Thursday, August 17 2006 23:10:10 Suggest Answer

I recently acquired an old Amaco LT-3 top-loading gas-powered kiln, and have a few questions about it. What is the cone max./temp rating, and where can I find more information on this model? Thanks!

Question Posted By: Ron Hay Thursday, August 17 2006 15:40:16 Suggest Answer

We aquired a used amaco electric kiln (about 3 cubic feet). What would be a safe firing scherdule for bisque firing, and glaze firing?

  +  Reply Posted By: (AMACO Staff) Lori Jenkins Wednesday, August 23 2006 08:39:43

Ron,

I would suggest that you bisque fire at Cone 04 (1975ºF) and your glaze firing will depend on the glazes that your using. Be sure to do a slow bisque (8-10 hrs). A low fire glaze needs to be fired at Cone 05 and high fire is Cone 5.

Lori

Question Posted By: Renee Thursday, August 17 2006 00:11:37 Suggest Answer

I have a very old Amaco #1 wheel with the special wheel head that takes plaster bats. I would like to replace the wheel head with a the standard aluminum one, but I can not remove the old one. I have taken the screw out, but the head won't budge. What am I doing wrong?

  +  Reply Posted By: (AMACO Staff) Lori Jenkins Wednesday, August 23 2006 12:50:29

Renee,

Please contact Bob Randolph at 800-374-1600 ext. 340.

Lori

Question Posted By: Nancy Schroth Monday, August 14 2006 19:01:18 Suggest Answer

I am interested in bending wire to make a sculpture which holds a glass tube to be used as a vase. What type of wire (about 1/4" diameter) would you suggest and how do I bend it uniformly. Do you have any patte
s of such a vase holder? Thanks

  +  Reply Posted By: (AMACO Staff) Lori Jenkins Wednesday, August 23 2006 12:48:54

Nancy,

I would suggest that you try reaching George Debikey at 800-925-5195 ext 328 or gdebikey.amaco.com to see if he can help you.

Lori

Question Posted By: Lacey Sunday, August 13 2006 11:17:19 Suggest Answer

Can polymer clay be painted? If so, what type of paint would be recommended?

  +  Reply Posted By: (AMACO Staff) Lori Jenkins Wednesday, August 23 2006 08:30:00

Lacey,

You can decorate with Acrylics, Rub N Buff Wax Metallic Finishes and Brush N Leaf.

Lori

Question Posted By: Irene Grubb Thursday, August 10 2006 19:34:23 Suggest Answer

I am going to use your Rub and Buff product- to update the finish on a vintage hand mirror. I will be updating it to resell- so I want it to remain in good condition. My question is- what is the best method of preparing the metal (cleaning etc)- and also can I put a protective coat over the rub and buff- such a Krylon Acrylic Spray. I've used this product before- and was pleased with the results- I just want to make sure I am applying it to it's best advantage. Thanks so much for any help- and I love your site- I plan to come back and take advantage of all the ideas and information- Sincerely- Irene

Question Posted By: Terry Sunday, August 6 2006 11:52:10 Suggest Answer

I purchased Amaco Rub N Buff Metalic Paints in the sample tubes. When I opened them they are very watery. Is this the consistancy they are suppose to be? I thought they were thicker.

I am using the paints to paint my glass etchings. There are parts of the etchings that are not etched at all (such as a person's face, hands and arms) Will the paint still stick to these surfaces? Or do I need to etch the face as well? And when the paint dries will it wash off easy with windex if we need to clean the glass?

Thank you,
Terry

  +  Reply Posted By: (AMACO Staff) Lori Jenkins Thursday, August 10 2006 12:46:06

Terry,

The clear liquid is the medium used in the product. As you squeeze out the product you'll see the colored is right behind it. Make sure that you mix with the medium.

The Rub N Buff should wipe off of the ares that have not been etched. If you want it to adhere to the face and hands you would need to etch those areas. Be sure to wipe off excess material at the completion of the project.


Lori

Question Posted By: Kristi Thursday, August 3 2006 09:31:43 Suggest Answer

I am an art teacher and have a Amaco FA88 3 phase electric fine art kiln that was there before I started teaching in the school. I am unable to locate a user manual and need to know the firing process (low fire) for this particular kiln.

Thank you.

Question Posted By: Larry L. Scaglione Thursday, August 3 2006 08:17:35 Suggest Answer

Does AMACO sell a clear gloss underglaze that can be applied over their Designer Velvet Underglazes to greenware?
If you go online to Moorcroft, they are saying that they dip their greenware in a clear gloss prior to bisque firing, and then dip the bisque again in another clear gloss for a second firing. They are at the top of their game, and their vases are collector's items. I would like to try this process with my pottery, so if AMACO sells a glaze for greenware, I would like to buy some.
Thanks,
Larry the Potter

  +  Reply Posted By: (AMACO Staff) Lori Jenkins Thursday, August 10 2006 12:32:21

Sorry but we do not manufacture anything like that. When you say gloss it has to have a frit in the formulation which would make it a clear glaze. You can dip your pieces in our clear glazes but would need to take care because of their greenware state.

Question Posted By: Brenda Watson Tuesday, August 1 2006 09:22:49 Suggest Answer

I am looking to find images of all types of roses esp. shabby ones to make waterside decals from my computer/printer.
Are there any freesites or pay ones you know of??

  +  Reply Posted By: Terry Sunday, August 6 2006 11:44:09

Here is a site with roses and there are also links to other sites. Hope this helps

http://www.thedecalcottage.com/

Question Posted By: Sarah Castro Monday, July 31 2006 09:18:08 Suggest Answer

Has the mosaic project sheet (under Fimo Soft) been posted yet? I've tried several times to pull it up, but have had no success yet.

  +  Reply Posted By: (AMACO Staff) Lori Jenkins Thursday, August 10 2006 12:26:48

It has been posted. If you cannot bring it up please send me your mailing address and I'll be glad to send you a copy.

Lori

Question Posted By: margaret delaney Monday, July 24 2006 17:06:47 Suggest Answer

What is the best approach to recycling porcelain clay. I am used to stoneware, but porcelain clay is so, so dense.

  +  Reply Posted By: (AMACO Staff) Lori Jenkins Tuesday, July 25 2006 13:41:04

You would follow the same procedure.

Question Posted By: Kay Monday, July 24 2006 08:45:42 Suggest Answer

I want to know how to make pins using Friendly Plastic. I want to make them into cheerleaders (about 3-4 inches tall). I tried to view the "Uptown Ladies" pin on the website but I could not bring it up. Can anyone help me or give me a source for a patte
? Thanks so much.

  +  Reply Posted By: (AMACO Staff) Lori Jenkins Tuesday, July 25 2006 13:39:57

Kay,

Send me your address and I'll be glad to send you the information requested.

Question Posted By: Andi Saturday, July 22 2006 05:00:11 Suggest Answer

My question is what is the best glue to use to attach a picture transferred to clay to a glaze cermanic cup and what kind of glaze or sealer over it. I try glaze and it starts to peel off. Did I do something wrong?
Need Help.

  +  Reply Posted By: (AMACO Staff) Lori Jenkins Tuesday, July 25 2006 13:43:12

Andi,

Are you attempting to make a decal with picture? I need to know more of what your attempting to do. My email is ljenkins@amaco.com.

Lori

  +  Reply Posted By: andi Saturday, July 29 2006 05:59:01

Yes,I guess I am making a decal. used liquid polymer clay with photo. Then I attached to cermanic cup. After that I put on polymer clay glaze over the picture which tansferred to polymer clay. Also any suggestions on glue to use when attaching to cermanic cup - I had alot of problems attaching it.

Question Posted By: jan ward Friday, July 21 2006 14:28:55 Suggest Answer

Can underglazes be fired higher than Cone 05?

  +  Reply Posted By: (AMACO Staff) Lori Jenkins Tuesday, July 25 2006 13:37:47

Jan,

Yes, some of them can. If you have our catalof (2006, look on page 95 for our temperature / variation chart. If you don't have it please send me your complete mailing address and place on in the mail for you.

Lori

Question Posted By: Joanne Wednesday, July 12 2006 20:24:44 Suggest Answer

Hi:
On 7/12/06 Maureen Carlson told how to make your own mold with poly clay. I missed what she said to use on the model that you want to make the mold of. Please advise.
Thank you,
Joanne

  +  Reply Posted By: (AMACO Staff) Lori Jenkins Monday, July 17 2006 09:23:58

I'm sorry but I don't have any information on that show. You may want to write to her at the following address -

Maureen Carlson
Wee Folk Creations
18476 Natchez Avenue
Prior Lake, MN 55372

Lori

  +  Reply Posted By: Dawn Pohl Sunday, August 13 2006 16:43:55

Maureen Carlson said use baby powder on the mold to keep it from sticking. I hope that is what you were asking.

Question Posted By: Louise Lucas Wednesday, July 12 2006 13:39:16 Suggest Answer

For a Bible School project making pinch pots, I purchased Moist Pottery Clay X-15. My question is, will the pots dry in a day or two enough for them to be glazed or can they be placed in a warm oven to help the process along? It is our desire the children glaze or paint them a day or two after forming. Is there another clay that would be better suited to our needs?

  +  Reply Posted By: (AMACO Staff) Lori Jenkins Thursday, July 13 2006 14:44:34

Ms. Lucas,

The usual drying time for this clay would be 7-10 days depending on the thickness of the pieces. Then the pieces could be glazed and fired to Cone 5.

If your wanting a clay that doesn't require a kiln, I would recommend using either Marblex, Mexican or Stonex Modeling clays. After they (clay projects) have dried (24 /48 hours) the kids could paint with acrylic paints.

Lori

Question Posted By: Peggy Neer Tuesday, July 11 2006 13:46:29 Suggest Answer

The summer 06 issue of Polymer Cafe shows some beautiful caning and suggest to go to your project section for instructions but I am not able to locate it. the artist is Jana Roberts Benson. Could you advise how I can get this info. Thanks.

  +  Reply Posted By: (AMACO Staff) Lori Jenkins Wednesday, July 12 2006 09:17:57

Peggy,

When you go to our web site www.amaco.com, go to projects sheets, then Fimo soft "Hinged Whimsey".

Lori

Question Posted By: Bob Tuesday, July 4 2006 08:33:58 Suggest Answer

Someone wants to sell me an amaco js39 kiln,
with an it-3 electric controller.
Do you have any information,dates made,size,spec sheets on this model?

Thanks

  +  Reply Posted By: (AMACO Staff) Lori Jenkins Thursday, July 6 2006 09:48:18

Bob,

I've located a parts list and single page information on the kiln. If you would like a copy please send me your complete mailing address.

Lori

Question Posted By: Judy Monday, July 3 2006 12:23:56 Suggest Answer

there was a reference in polymer cafe (summer 06) to your web page for additional projects by jana roberts benzon - I'm assuming it's the "art to wear" under FImo classic, but when I click on it, nothing opens - any suggestions? actually, none of the projects under FIMO classic open fo me - I am able to open several, but not all of the projects under fimo soft, lke the dragonfly and blue sky heart projects
thanks

  +  Reply Posted By: (AMACO Staff) Lori Jenkins Wednesday, July 5 2006 12:34:54

Judy,

Please send me your complete mailing address and I'll mail the sheets to you. Sorry for the problem.

Lori

Question Posted By: Eulavon Mallouf Thursday, June 29 2006 22:10:31 Suggest Answer

I am also trying to find the projects that Connie King spoke of. I read an advertisement in Crafts'n Things - using Soft FIMO in mosaics. A serving tray, garden o
ament, and decorated pot. Not that I wouldn't be able to figure out how to complete the projects on my own, but just wondering why it isn't easily found on the site suggested. Thanks,

  +  Reply Posted By: Diana Friday, June 30 2006 12:22:38

Hello!
Sorry, the FIMO mosaic project sheet will be posted shortly. The magazine ads were scheduled for release in Mid-July but somehow ended up being published sooner.

Question Posted By: Shirley Thursday, June 29 2006 18:45:48 Suggest Answer

I am working with ArtEmboss copper for the first time to make Christmas o
aments. How do I smooth the edges so they are not so sharp when I am done? Also, what is the best paint to patina with? I am planning on mounting them on an art paper or light weight paper to add some color...what is the easiest way to mount them? Finally, what type of polish works well to polish them?

  +  Reply Posted By: (AMACO Staff) Lori Jenkins Thursday, July 6 2006 09:54:24

Shirley,

To smooth edges usually you would fold over and use a brayer to smooth the edgae. Also we now have the tape which matches the sheets. I would check at you local art & craft store to see what thhey have for the ppatina process. Usually the metal will oxidize over time which changes the color. Use E 600 to help with mounting. Just polish with a soft cloth.

Lori

Question Posted By: Connie King Wednesday, June 28 2006 16:21:58